Modified DS3 controler: need some help

[Mietepiet]

I finaly did it, I replaced the triangle button with an on/off switch. But I'm not a happy camper yet.
I need some conductive glue to stick copper wire on plastic. Does anybody know if that's possible?

This is what I did for now:
I simply removed the triangle button and duct taped the wire of an old phone charger on the both sides of the light grey area of the plactic electronic circuits of the DS3. Connecting the other sides of the wires to a € 0,75 on/off switch. The connection is not good enough to hold, so i put the triangle button up-side down back in it's hole. It works for now, but I'm afraid I'll get malfinctions soon.

It works great for speedlap sessions, no more sore thumb :) And for the boost-start, the timing is a little bit off, but after 3 tries I got it.

[JABBERJAW]

What exactly are you trying to do? Gas always on? You could install a tiny switch on the controller connected to the contacts of the button you want to use ( solder)

[Mietepiet]

Yeah that's the point.
The problem is that I can't use solder, since it has the electric circuits on plastic :(
And when I trace it down to the green plate and use solder there, all other buttons will probably malfuntion.
The only way is connect a cable to plastic. got it working with duct tape, but it gonna get loose easily.

[DDD113]

Just get a DS4 and connection cord, all the buttons are digital, so no more hard pressed thumbs, just on or off. ;)

[JABBERJAW]

Does r1 or l1 have good connection points? If not, you should solder the switch to R3 or L3, this should be pretty easy to do, there should be two contact points already soldered to the board as it is just a micro switch( I think).

Or you could just solder it directly to the micro switch.

[Mietepiet]

all connection points are plastic, they lead to the green plate, but when i solder there, the other won't connect probably.

[JABBERJAW]

Sorry, I forgot to reply last night. When you first open the controller upside down, look at the bottom of the right analog stick under the board. You should see the 4 solder points in two places for the analog stick ( up/down, plus left/right ). In the lower left of this area there is a 2 by 2 solder point for the microswitch. It has the letters MUS inside of the 2 by 2 square. Two of these pins are ground, and the other two go together as well. You will have to test this part. There is another square in the same location on the left stick as well.

These are the R3 L3 buttons when you press the stick down

[Mietepiet]

Thanks, that will do the trick.

The 4 solderpoints under the microswitch (the small square). The upper two points have to be connected.

[JABBERJAW]

Tell me how that works out. You could probably test a button connected to those points to make sure while the game is on, but don't hit other connection points

[Mietepiet]

I've tested it by connecting the two points with a paperclip and it works fine. Now I have to find a way to solder the wire to the tiny little points, without screwing up the green plate. Luckily I've one with a broken analog stick, which I can use for testing. I'll jeep you posted with the results.

[DIXI200]

If this continues I will see buttons attached to their fingers ..:eek

I need to translate a while 'to figure out what you do ..;)

[amplificated]

Now you just need a BR button and you're set ;P

Personally, as annoying as holding the X button down is 99% of the time, I don't think I'd be able to handle not pressing anything at all for acceleration! Ignoring that button would be too unnatural for me :P
An optimal solution for me would probably be a button with ~10% analogue room, then for the remaining ~90% of the depth the button is pressed you get 100% accel.. I mean, at times you don't actually want to hold down X, as rare as they are, and in SL I don't mind analogue for testing purposes. Would probably rip the "triggers" out and replace them with something actually good, too.

Still, good work. I've definitely wondered at times about modifying one of my controllers to try make things easier, and if I ever get around to turning my PS3 back on - if it still works I guess - I may have to try to pursue something like this. Still don't think I'd be able to fix my biggest issue: pitch accuracy and lag with the 6axis. But just for fun...